Practices: Draping | Flat patterning | Gusset alteration

Style/Era: ~1950s

A solo project handed off to me by our draper and Dance Concert '24 designer, Robert Kuhn, to drape and construct a shirtwaist dress for one of the leads in the dance piece: "The Last Miner."

Utilizing only a photograph provided by the piece's choreographer of their grandmother, who the character was based off of, I deducted the garment would exist as one piece with a belt to sinch in the waist. I was taught how to create a skirt utilizing two circles to give the dress a flowing spin when dancing. I also received help in cleaning up my flat patterned sleeve because it was too form fitting, in addition to needing a gusset for extra freedom of movement when dancing.

The process consisted of draping out the general form of the dress with style lines in mind, the goal being to have no back or waist seams. Then creating a mockup for the dancer to try on and ensure the collar sat well on the body. Lastly, constructing the garment from the fashion fabric and altering the belt into an internal elastic casing so the dancer could be lifted safely during the dance piece.

Points in which I was challenged:

• Figuring out a dart in the collar so that it laid flat and resembled the photograph.

  • With help and guidance I was able to place a fish dart to aid the collar.

• Flat-patterning a sleeve for the first time.

  • With many questions, I was able to cut and spread properly for the sleeve to have extra width.

• Having the skirt front closure lay flat.

  • Laying the garment on the form helped see where the skirt seam needed to be altered.

• Creating the gusset for the underarm.

  • Through trial and error, I was able to get the curvature of the gusset right.